Sunday, May 31, 2009

s l o w

So, this is my third post from Bangladesh. I am being r e a l l y s l o w . .

I had heard that the Dhaka heat, the traffic and the over all weather makes you lazy. It is not false, and I am a practical example of the same!

So, where have I been? I have been here itself. Traveling a lot. Possibly this is my first week when I will be staying for a whole 7 days without checking out of the room. It is so relaxing to be at one place...

In the mean time, I have a good news to share! finally my parents changed home. Now they have shifted to a bigger, brighter and more spacious apartment! After the search of decades and playing around with a few properties, Mom finally approved of a place! can't wait to be in there with them...

That's all for now in this truncated post. It is more so just to let you know that I am alive, and fortunately or unfortunately (depending on my relations with you), cyclone 'Aila' was unsuccessful in getting me... ;-)

Cheers!

Friday, May 22, 2009

Her Indian Visa

“What the heck?” “Why is this website so crappy?” “Are you serious, I need my photos, and a demand draft?” “Why is it so tough to get an Indian Visa?”

These are all her words. An American trying to get an Indian Visa in Bangladesh!

It was a bright sunny, rather sweaty morning, and I was in the auto rickshaw with her, on our way to Indian Embassy. It was her first ever visit to any embassy. An American, she rarely needs to visit any embassy for Visa. Mail in the passport, and the Visa is returned within 3 days, that is what she is used to. But, here in Bangladesh, she has no such privilege, and she has to make efforts to get a Visa. As we have been together since the first day of our internship, naturally, I am bound to be with her.

Anyway, so we reach the Indian Embassy, and she collects a form. “Oh Darshan, I don’t have a photo with me?” Here starts the American ignorance or what so ever you wish to call it. Now, we rush for a photo, to realize, we have no details as to how much money would it require, in what currency, or in what format. So, the second search for an internet café starts. Finally we find one, and we check it. Comparable to Visa websites of other countries, ours is equally complicated giving no practical details. Finally we figure out the amount we need to pay, and go to the bank next door to get a DD (Banker’s check) for that amount in the name of the Embassy. Then the visit to the photocopier for making double copies of all these documents. Finally we head back to the Indian Embassy.

We are directed to the third floor. Straight faced people sitting in waiting lobby, not a single smile… A security woman asks her to enter her name in a register, and points us to two empty chairs. We are seated, and suddenly a Chinese lady rushes out of the Officer’s room, to her friend/sister/daughter waiting outside, and asks for change. The Consular Officer wants exact 30 Takas, he will not render any change. I am lucky to have it in my pocket and so offer it to the lady. She smiles, says thank you, and goes back in. Few minutes later, she is out with a face of a warrior who has achieved a huge task. After a couple of other candidates, my friend’s name is announced. She goes in, and in a few minutes I hear her pleading voice. Unsure of what’s happening, I enter the Officer’s cabin. The Officer has refused to accept the DD, and now wants cash. Luckily, once again my wallet proves a savior and I have the amount. But, the Officer makes the same demand again, “render exact change.” Now I am loosing it. With straight face, and staring in his eyes, I remind him that the lady earlier has already given him the change and if he cannot accept the worn out notes given by me, he should return me the change for a higher amount note. Officer is quite, accepts her form, and after exchanging a few words, lets us go. We have to collect the Visa tomorrow.

This was one of its kind experiences. Two reasons made it unique for me. One, to see how ill prepared an American could be for a Visa procedure. I should confess, I actually felt better, that for a change an American was realizing what it takes to get a Visa. If I have to put it in words of one of my Bangladeshi colleague from Grameen, he said, “Darshan you should have had let her do the whole procedure on her own. That’s when she would have realized what we go through for an American Visa.” The second reason: I realized how our people are as bureaucratic in other countries, as they are back home. Ain’t there a saying in Hindi, “Ku… ki doom tedhi hi rehti hain!”

Disclaimer: No offence to my American friends. This is a politically motivated post! ;-)

Wednesday, May 20, 2009

Cha

I was scared to go to Afghanistan! Ironically, while everyone around me was worried about my life, I was worried about something else. Was I worried or was I dreading the nightmare? Nightmare, not of guns or the war… Afraid not of the unknown… Neither did the unavailability of vegetarian food scare me. What scared me was the word, “Chai.” A drink that I have not tasted since I remember, something that I have been unable to drink ever. And, Greg Mortenson, in his best seller “Three Cups of Tea” mentions the importance of tea or the “cha” in the region. Relations that evolve over “teen cha!” And, I was averse to this basic requirement of friendship in this region!

Ironically, though on the opposite side of India than that of Afghanistan, this is a requirement in Bangladesh too. Refusing a “cha” is considered hostile and can break the relation even before it is made. So, I faced a choice of either making friends or staying a loner in this part of the world, and I chose the first one. I had the first cup of chai ever. It was tough.. That’s akll I can say. When the first skin of milk over the liquid tea touched my tongue, I was on the verge of throwing out. But, now after 5 days of starting with Chai, having at least a cup a day for some or other reason, I am doing well. Chai is making my taste buds dance to it’s taste!

Greg, I am preparing myself for the assignment!

Friday, May 15, 2009

Grand welcome to Dhaka

I need to get regular about writing, else I am gonna miss documenting most of these amazing experiences. Though, as of now, I have the intermittent internet connection to blame, cos it is unavailable exactly when I am in the mood to write!

Any way, the good news is, I experienced a grand welcome to Dhaka. What was that? Guess...?? Lost my more than tow year old Nokia N70!!! Howzzat... More than the cell phone, I lost all the data it contains! Awesome.. It's going to be after a few years that I am spending a day without my cellphone in my pocket! Actually was thinking of utilizing this opportunity to get rid of my cell phone addiction, but not much success! Already bought a new (cheap) handset, and will reactivate the card tomorrow!

That's the interesting story as of now, many more stories in pipeline, but only after I am able to shed off my inertia and push my lazy bones to move, if brain chooses to work!

Catch ya soon with more Bangla tales!

Sunday, May 10, 2009

Travelogue

Long time... It becomes really difficult to articulate loads of happenings and squeeze them in one posting. Especially when you've not posted for a while... ;-)

So, where am I currently? I am in India, basking in the 40 degree temperatures ;-), ready to leave for Bangladesh tomorrow. Will be in Dhaka, working with Grameen Bank for about 35 days till June 16, when I am scheduled to leave for Birmingham, England for the Rotary Peace Symposium. The travel would continue to Dharamshala, India after the Peace Symposium concludes on June 20. For another 45 days, I will be at Dharamshala to complete the Applied Field Experience (AFE) with Central Tibetan Authority (formerly known as Tibetan Government in Exile). Then, I'll be back home for 10 days, before I take off for my abode in USA, Chapel Hill!!!

The itinerary looks quite attractive, wotsay?? But, it did not come off easily. Navigating through the bureaucratic structures and manipulating people, it took quite a while, and quite a bit of patience to finalize this schedule. I was looking forward to my dream internship/AFE in Afghanistan with the UNDP and WB, in congruence with the Afghan government. Mann, that was a hell of an internship, an opportunity of lifetime. Unfortunately, the US State department's travel advisory and Rotary's strict abidance to the same jeopardized my opportunity. Isn’t it ironical that a peace fellow is denied to work in a conflict ridden zone? And, the climax lies in the statement: "Rotary would not mind you working in Afghanistan after you graduate, rather they would be happy. But now [when Rotary is responsible for you] it is not possible."

Anyway, no ill feelings! All's well that ends well! I still do have an internship that I could have dreamt of... Staying in Dharamshala for more than a month is a blessing in itself, and I am looking forward to it!

Will keep ya’ll posted.. Till then, Adios..

"दूर जाना है बहुत्, मत देख आईना अभी से
अभी तो रुख़सार पे बहुत से रँग आने बाक़ी हैं |"
- हबीब हाशमी